Dec 19, 2006 nice video of sonny trotter s first free i. It had been attempted by many of the worlds hardest climbers, most recently by swiss crack master didier berthod. If youre not falling sonnie trotter, cory richards rhapsody e11 duration. The fourth and final post of the 2005 lost collection. Sonnie worked the overhanging, thinfinger crack 3040 times over the past few years, often ropesoloing the route. In 2005, swiss crack climbing ace didier berthod, who had redpointed 5. Trotter began climbing in 1997 at age 16, and soon became the first canadian to climb 5. Subscribe today to get gripped magazine delivered to your door at a fraction of the newsstand price. Sonnie said, its very rare to find a climb that is both overhanging, and so aesthetic. Two of north americas hardest traditional rock climbsboth sonnie trotter routes in canadahave been repeated in the past few days. He climbed it 3040 times over a couple of years, before finally doing the first traditional ascent.
Canadas top rock climber, sonnie trotter started out in the flatlands of ontario. Najlepszy gorski film krotkometrazowy kanada, 2006, 12 minut rezyseria. Join us as acmg associate and master climber sonnie trotter shares fun memories and inspiring stories of his 20 years in the vertical sonnie trotter. While it may or may not be the hardest trad climb in the world, it certainly has to involve the most painful and difficult finger locks one can imagine. Over the past few seasons, harnden was able to make the thirdever ascent of iconic dreamcatcher 5. Trotter attempted the 100foot finger crack more than 30 times over three years before completing it allfree, placing his pro on the lead, according to. When asked how family man compares with his other trad first ascents including the infamous cobra crack 5. He was the first canadian to win a us national and to climb 5. Nov 20, 2007 najlepszy gorski film krotkometrazowy kanada, 2006, 12 minut rezyseria. Today we have more details about the climb and style of the ascent. Sonnie trotter climbs another worlds hardest crack. Rock climb cobra crack, british columbia mountain project. Cobra crack is an arching thinfinger crack splitting a steep wall at the cirque of the uncrackables on the chiefs backside. One of the best rock climbs in the world without question.
Sonnie trotter is a canadian professional climber, known for his strength in many rock climbing. Sonnie trotter, first trad ascent of prosthetics at mill. In june 2006, sonnie trotter made the first free ascent of cobra crack 5. Sonnie said, its very rare to find a climb that is both overhanging, and so.
His lists of accomplishments encompass all styles of climbing, from deep water soloing to big walls. Trotter is widely known for his first ascent of cobra crack, perhaps the worlds most coveted finger crack climb, but he enjoys mixing up all styles of climbing as much as possible from bouldering and sport climbing to traditional routes, big walls and even the occasional alpine route. Nov 19, 2007 in june 2006, sonnie trotter made the first free ascent of cobra crack 5. That trip opened his eyes and he immediately dedicated himself to climbing.
Situated high up on the flanks of the chief in squamish, this line was known as possibly one of the worlds most difficult cracks. Trotter has more about the stingray send, including pictures from andrew burr, in his latest blog post. Sonnie has now completed the trilogy of possibly the hardest traditionally protected routes in the world. Speaking of the cobra curse what about that dude from first ascent, didier was he ever seen since his. Its a beautiful bit of climbing, really controlled and technical, with lots of finger jamming. Patagonia climbing ambassador sonnie trotter climbed the first free ascent of cobra crack 5. Sonnie also made squamish history in 2006 when he and his climbing partner matt segal connected the shadow 5. A stunning wall of overhanging granite split by a singular seam, barely wide enough to get your fingers into. In 2006, canadian sonnie trotter made the first free ascent of the cobra crack 5. My love for photography began almost as soon as climbing fell into my life, but see 1,082 photos and videos on their profile.
Many climbers have noted that almost all of the modern hard crack lines are being climbed with protection preplaced. The route, a pristine 30m finger crack that neatly splits the smooth overhanging granite face, was in origin a peter croft aid route graded a2. My love for photography began almost as soon as climbing fell into my life, but i didnt get a camera for many more years. Ifsc creates a climbing during covid19 task force may 1, 2020. To add what everybody else has replied, it has a veritable whos who of crack climbing as ascensionists. This is a hazy topic, especially as armchair climbers such as us begin trying to speculate as to what a pure crack is. Two of north americas hardest traditional rock climbsboth sonnie trotter routes in. The status of rock climbing across canada may 2 may 2, 2020. It was a very simple design, relatively lightweight, took me 10 minutes to build, and it got the job done. Sonnie trotter from canada has made the first retrotrad ascent of prosthetics 5. Crack climbing is a type of rock climbing in which the climber follows a crack in the rock and uses specialized climbing techniques. Logan barber makes 12th ascent of cobra crack gripped. If you can climb the grade and enjoy cracks then the cobra is or at least should be on your ticklist.
Dec 19, 2015 canadian sonnie trotter has redpointed the muchtried cobra crack at squamish, b. He was the first canadian to win a us national climbing championship. To date cobra crack is one of the hardest crack routes in the world. In his own backyard well, hes from ontario and cobra crack is 1,700 miles away in squamish, british columbia sonnie trotter sent one of the hardest finger cracks in the world. Ukc news sonnie trotter climbs another worlds hardest trad. Its basically on every hard crack climbers ticklist. The route, a pristine 30m fingercrack that neatly splits the smooth overhanging granite face, was in origin a peter croft aid route graded a2.
The bolts tend to be much farther apart than sport climbs. I needed it to be something i could take with me to the crag as it was a crack climbing workshop after all but could still demonstrate the full range of crack sizes. On august 20th, canadian climber sonnie trotter, first ascensionist of cobra crack at squamish, a contender for the worlds hardest singlepitch trad route alongside dave macleods rhapsody. Traditional or trad climbing, is a style of rock climbing in which a climber or group of climbers place all gear required to protect against falls, and remove it when a pitch is complete. Canadas own sonnie trotter has freed one of the most coveted crack testpieces in north america, squamishs cobra crack. Cobra crack is to be found in the cirque of the uncrackables, behind the beautiful granite dome that is the chief. This is a short clip about a local kick ass climber from the dnv whos attempting to be the fifth person to climb the one and only cobra. Sonnie trotter is a canadian professional climber, known for his strength in many rock climbing disciplines, contributing to. Dec 19, 2015 cover boy sonnie trotter on cobra crack 5.
The beauty and classicity of a climb is an incredibly subjective topic, but im just going go ahead and say it as others have. Its definitely harder than my other trad first ascents, like sugar daddy 5. Canadian sonnie trotter has made the first ascent of what he believes to be the hardest pure crack climb in the world, cobra crack 5. In more recent years, trotter has gained notoriety for his support of clean trad routes over bolted routes, and his first ascent of the cobra crack in squamish, british columbia. Sonnie trotter is one of the worlds most accomplished climbers. Favresse, who nabbed the second ascent of sonnie trotter s cobra crack in squamish, calls it the hardest hes sent. Down and dirty with sonnie trotter the cleanest line. His first breakthrough was on a camping trip to colorado at the age of 17 with only 21 months of climbing experience. Sonnie trotter is one of the worlds most accomplished rock climbers. According to the email he sent ukclimbing, trotter felt like stingray was the 2nd hardest crack hes climbed with the hardest presumably being squamishs cobra crack. On his first try of the day, after many weeks of attempts, will made it higher than ever before, falling off only one or two moves.
I recently had the pleasure of speaking with sonnie trotter. Shortly after, one of canadas first rockclimbing gyms opened a 10minute bike ride from his home. Trotter began climbing at 16, became the first canadian to climb 5. So what are some of the other worlds hardest pure crack climbs. During his five week visit, trotter repeated four 5. Both wide boyz pete whittaker and tom randall ben harnden. The scariest climbs often make for the best stories, which is part of why pro. The recovery drink and the worlds hardest crack climbs. Alex honnold breaks down iconic rock climbing scenes gq.
The entire roll comprised of cobra crack, and didier berthods summer bid. Traditional bolted face climbing means the bolts were placed on lead andor with hand drills. He has been a major force on the squamish scene, with his first ascent of cobra crack 5. From june 27, 2006 trotter climbs the worlds hardest crack canadas own sonnie trotter has freed one of the most coveted crack testpieces in north america, squamishs cobra crack. For 20 years sonnie trotter has pushed the limits of trad, sport and bouldering. Jaubert, piccolruaz, the tripartite, and the olympics may 2, 2020. Canadian sonnie trotter has redpointed the muchtried cobra crack at squamish, b. His first official climb, at age 15, was on an artificial rock wall at a summer festival in toronto. Canadian sonnie trotter, first ascensionist of hard trad routes including cobra crack and the path.
Sonnie worked the overhanging, thinfinger crack 3040 times over the past few years, often ropesoloing the route to dial the moves, before completing it allfree. The cobra crack, won best short film at the bimff in 2006. Logan barber makes 12th ascent of cobra crack gripped magazine. Sonnie trotter born november 15, 1979 in toronto, ontario is a canadian professional climber, known for his strength in many rock climbing disciplines, contributing to hundreds of first ascents around the world. Jun 03, 2010 according to the email he sent ukclimbing, trotter felt like stingray was the 2nd hardest crack hes climbed with the hardest presumably being squamishs cobra crack. June 28, 2006 cobra crack update yesterday we reported that canadian sonnie trotter had successfully climbed the hardest crack line in the world, cobra crack 5. Best known for his intrepid ascent of squamishs cobra crack 5. The path and cobra crack repeated climbing magazine. Ukc news sonnie trotter climbs another worlds hardest. Five ten 2016 sonnie trotter first free ascent of ewbank route on tasmanias. Jun 11, 2019 for 20 years sonnie trotter has pushed the limits of trad, sport and bouldering. That is such an awesome line, everytime i watch a video on cobra crack it makes me want to go clmbing. He also has the first ascent of the cobra crack to date one of the hardest crack routes in the world.